Saturday 30 January 2016

Nairobi


Arrived in Nairobi. Just had a Pizza and glass of red wine. All well. Will be at Jungle Junction for the week. Looking forward to the  arrival of Craig and Natalie on 5 Feb. Let the Safari begin !


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Just crossed the Equator going south againπŸ˜€

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Friday 29 January 2016

GPS Update - January 30, 2016 at 02:13AM

Lat+00.565183 Lon+037.534466 Alt +1837 ft (0s ago) 29-Jan-2016 13:13:20 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=00.565183&lon=037.534466

Thursday 28 January 2016

GPS Update - January 29, 2016 at 04:38AM

Lat+02.346149 Lon+037.965916 Alt +5288 ft (25s ago) 28-Jan-2016 15:37:30 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=02.346149&lon=037.965916

Last night in Ethiopia. Yabello .

Security check point.

Time to rotate tyres !!!!

Last few days in Ethiopia .

We had a lovely stay in the Bale Mountain Lodge then headed out after breakfast for what we knew was two full days of dirt road. We travelled through the very beautiful and untouched Harenna Forrest which is part of the Bale Mountains national park. We spotted a few Bale mountain monkeys moving around in the tree canopy above. At the edge of the National park we stopped at a community project, set up by the Frankfurt Zoological Society, harvesting wild coffee. We were their very first customers. We were their Guinea pigs 😊. We were treated to a coffee ceremony, bought wild coffee that was roasted there and then for us to take home and also bought organic honey that is farmed, by the local people, in the forest. After our little distraction we hit the long dusty road eastwards. After 240 km of difficult dirt road we finally arrived at the Hotel Giriini (green) in Negele Borena. What a dump ! We continued to sleep in the Mog renting a room for $5 p/p. The next morning Tom decided it was time to rotate tyres πŸ˜–πŸ˜©, found some kind of place and with the help of the locals proceeded to do so. Half an hour later we were on our way. 7,5 hours of non stop driving on a dirt road varying between potholes, corrugations and washed away bridges we finally made it to Yabello, rented a room again this time for $15 and slept in Mog. This morning easy 200 km drive to to border and then another 350 km to Marsabit. Camping in Kenya tonight πŸ˜€
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Wednesday 27 January 2016

GPS Update - January 28, 2016 at 03:44AM

Lat+04.885700 Lon+038.140083 Alt +5161 ft (0s ago) 27-Jan-2016 14:44:35 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=04.885700&lon=038.140083

Tuesday 26 January 2016

GPS Update - January 27, 2016 at 03:20AM

Lat+05.330416 Lon+039.572816 Alt +4934 ft (0s ago) 26-Jan-2016 14:20:34 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=05.330416&lon=039.572816

Sunday 24 January 2016

Addis to Bale Mountains

We left Addis yesterday at 06h30 and found a very nice Expressway after leaving the city but it only lasted 58 km. Along the way we could see in excess of 100 wind turbines generating electricity. The rest of the road was all tar and as usual we finished with a long mountain pass. Another 8 hours of driving.
We had a cold night. When we woke this morning it was 3 degrees !!
Today we went on a long walk in the Bale Mountains. It was not too strenuous but about 16 km long. We were tired when we got back. On the walk we saw warthogs, mountain Nyala and Reedbuck.

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Friday 22 January 2016

Dessie to Addis


400 km took 9 hours of driving.  A long day, couple of mountain passes and lots of villages, pedestrians and animals.
Late this afternoon we slowed down to allow 2 cows to cross a wide road. One did while the other stood in the next lane. A taxi came with too much speed and at the last moment the cow turned around. The taxi just hit the cow on the rump. I heard the bang and in my rear view mirror I saw glass from the impact. To my absolute surprise the cow walked off with a slight limp. The taxi carried on going !
Tomorrow morning we leave at 07 h00 to drive to the Bale Mountains. 
Best wishes to you all.☺

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View from our Hotel Churchill facing south





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GPS Update - January 23, 2016 at 03:39AM

Lat+09.026783 Lon+038.754116 Alt +7182 ft (0s ago) 22-Jan-2016 14:39:26 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=09.026783&lon=038.754116

Lalibela to Dessie

This is a drive of about 285 km. First 64 km on dirt up and down mountains.
Then tarr on a bouncy road. We were stopped temporarily in 4 towns due to Tim kat celebrations. The Police were very helpful in parting the crowd.
Stayed in a nice hotel Melbourne found by chance. Today we have 400 km to Addis which will take about 7 or 8 hours and tomorrow Bale Mountains for a few days.
All is well as we head South .



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Thursday 21 January 2016

GPS Update - January 22, 2016 at 06:03AM

Lat+11.144366 Lon+039.640750 Alt +8277 ft (0s ago) 21-Jan-2016 16:59:34 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=11.144366&lon=039.640750

Wednesday 20 January 2016

Colourful cloths draped over the replicas of the Ark of the Covenants (Tabots) on their return.

The procession returning to the Churches.

The Holy Water is dispensed.

Blessing of the water to make Holy Water.

Morning ceremony of Timkat.

Morning ceremony of Timkat.

Procession passing through Lalibela.

The Procession.

Main body of procession carrying 10 replicas of The Ark Of The Covenant.

Eve of Timkat start of procession.

Celebrating Timkat (Epiphony) In Lalibela

We revisited the churches using a book lent to us by our friend Si Say who works at the Hotel Churchill where we stayed in Addis. He had returned to Lalibela,where he lives, for his annual leave. It was great to walk around again without a guide, taking photographs in a more relaxed way.
In the afternoon we returned to the area just below the two church compounds in time to watch the procession of Deacons, Priests and other Church Office Bearers. The procession was very colourful but dignified in a religious way. The procession was bringing 10 replicas of the Ark of The Covenant, one from each Church, into the village. Each Church retains a replica of The Ark Of The Covenant in an area described as The Holy Of Holies (behind a curtain at the front of the Church).
This procession is very slow as a small group of helpers roll out a few sections of carpet in front of the procession. As the procession passes the carpets are lifted and replaced at the front in a continuous process. There is a lot of singing and chanting whilst drums and other symbol like instruments are played. There is a large crowd that envelopes the procession and a lot of tourist taking photographs. The procession and marshals were very tolerant of all the tourist and worshippers.
The destination of the procession was an area where a further celebration would take place the next morning.
Our plan was to be at the site of the celebration at 06h00, we overslept but still got there in time. As we arrived we saw a small grandstand full of tourists alongside a pool built in the shape of a cross. We took up our seats at a cost of Bir 300 each (R200). It was still dark and many of the worshippers were wearing white shawls and holding candles. This created a wonderful atmosphere. The groups of Church Office Bearers were wearing beautiful colored robes and some holding decorated umbrellas. Some of the worshippers even climbed trees to get a better view. This time no sign of the 10 replicas of The Ark Of The Covenant. After some drum beating and playing of symbol type instruments, with gentle swaying of bodies to the rhythm of the music the Deacons came to bless the Holy Water in the pool in front of us. Holy Water was created.
We were anticipating a very formal and dignified ceremony where worshippers would be baptised with the Holy Water. Not so ....to our great surprise the water was splashed out of the pool, initially by the Deacons, onto the crowd that surged forward. Even two garden hoses connected to taps were employed to wet the crowd. This turned into a fun event with great excitement, splashing of water and filling of water bottles to take home.
In the afternoon the procession that brought the replicas of the 10 Ark of The Covenants down from the Churches yesterday retraced their steps up the hill to the Churches. Again much singing, dancing and playing of their drums and symbols. At the head of the procession were a few groups of young men dancing in circles with sticks, very similar to toy-toying.
We have thoroughly enjoyed the cultural experience of celebrating Timkat, tomorrow we start a 2 day trek to Addis Ababa.

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Monday 18 January 2016

This is what trucks can do to a road.

Visit to the Rock Hewn Churches of Lalibela

What an interesting day. We left at 09h00 and after a short Tuk Tuk ride we arrived at the first cluster of churches. The churches were all constructed by King Lalibela in the 13th century. Nothing can prepare you for the scale of the excavations and the size of the first church Bete Medhene Alem 33.5 meters long and 23.5 meters wide and 10 meters high. This church suffered some damage in an earthquake about 500 years ago but has since been repaired. The churches are either monolithic (you can walk around all four sides) or semi monolithic (either a wall or roof are part of the rock structure). There are 11 churches divided into 3 groups. The churches within a cluster are linked by a system of passages and tunnels. All our photographs of the interiors were taken in near darkness due to small windows and limited interior lighting.
Most of the churches have columns supporting the roof with detailed carvings and in one case paintings (Bete Mariam). The doors and doorways are also fascinating. The exterior of the churches show little wear and the horizontal and vertical lines are clear to see.

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Bete Giorgis. 12,5m x 12m x 12m high

Bete Giorgis.

Bete Giorgis.

Another passageway.

Underground passageways link the various churches.

Bas-relief figure of a saint carved into a niche in the wall of The church of Bete Golgotha.

Men only chamber in Bete Golgotha.

Bete Mariam is the most internally ornamented church in Lalibela.

One of the many interesting door ways.

Interior of Bete Medhane Alem.

Bette Medane Alem. The largest rock hewn church in Lalibela.

Saturday 16 January 2016

SMS Update - January 17, 2016 at 06:10AM

We have arrived in Lalibela. An epic 10 hour drive with 11 mountain passes. More news tomorrow. Happy Birthday PJJB. Nighty night.

GPS Update - January 17, 2016 at 05:57AM

Lat+12.021866 Lon+039.042233 Alt +6998 ft (0s ago) 16-Jan-2016 16:57:35 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=12.021866&lon=039.042233

Friday 15 January 2016

No not Easter just our shopping

Descending into Adigrat where the Rainbow ends

Debre Damo Church packed from stone.

Amper daar phew!!!!

The climb up to Debre Damo !! Men only.

This is how you buy a dozen eggs (packed in teff)

Buying Bread Rolls in Axum

Home of "The Ark of the Covenant"

The Mog in the Stellae Field at Axum

"The Ark of the Covenant" in the procession at Axum

Refine our early morning guide

Worshipers in procession with "The Ark of the Covenant"

GPS Update - January 16, 2016 at 03:41AM

Lat+13.486500 Lon+039.469350 Alt +5977 ft (0s ago) 15-Jan-2016 14:41:35 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=13.486500&lon=039.469350

Thursday 14 January 2016

Axum to Adigrat

Today was a very interesting day. Our guide Refine collected us,at 04h30, from our Mog. We walked into the village of Axum where we attend a religious procession starting from the Church that supposedly houses the Ark of the Covenant. It was still pitch dark but a lot of pilgrims were in attendance. We walked into the compound of Churches but at a certain point Moz had to wait as women were not allowed into the inner sanctum. Refine and I proceeded and watched as the Priests brought a Talbot out under a cloth cover. Many of the worshipers were carrying candles and saying prayers. We returned to Moz and the entire procession went into a square outside the Church compound. There was singing and generally a serene religious atmosphere with lots of worshipers clad in white robes carrying candles. At a certain point the procession started to walk through the village with the singing of a religious chorus returning to the square after about 1 hour.
After breakfast we returned to the village to buy rolls, fruit, vegetables and eggs. We had some help from a volunteer. What great fun camels, donkeys and interesting small shops.
We then left for Adigrat with a planned stop at the Monastery of Debre Damo. This is perched high on a hill, does not permit women and you can only enter by climbing with ropes up a 15 meter vertical cliff. I needed a lot of help from two Monks pulling while I tried my best to climb. When I got to the top I was exhausted and shaking from exertion. There is no other way to enter the Monastery. After a short rest I was shown the Church used by the Monks at the Monastery. It is a beautiful old stone building with fantastic views.
The climb down was equally difficult, my decent was controlled by two Monks whilst I tried to hold on and clamber down. It was well worth it !!!
We are back in the hotel parking lot. We hired a single room for $ 17. It has a clean shower with hot water and a flush toilet. We are getting quite good at this πŸ˜€
To date we have travelled 11600 km and tomorrow we head South again. Homeward bound. 😘
By the way ....... Had to conquer a few more mountain passes again.

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GPS Update - January 15, 2016 at 04:14AM

Lat+14.278733 Lon+039.460416 Alt +8097 ft (0s ago) 14-Jan-2016 15:14:34 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=14.278733&lon=039.460416

Wednesday 13 January 2016

Covert washing required covert drying (inside Mog).

Spectacular drive on a spectacular road.

First mountain pass according to garmin.

Debark to Axum

We left this morning at 06h00 as planned. It was dark and cold. We were expecting a serious mountain pass straight after leaving Debark nogal on a dirt road. We were not disappointed. Pity it was dark as we missed some breathtaking scenery to start off with. Without any doubt we drove the most spectacular mountain passes we have ever seen. We dropped over 2 000 meters only to climb again. This continued up and down for 200 km out of a total of 246 km (5 hours out of a total for the day of 6 hours). There we many steep cliffs and sheer drops into valleys below.
We did the tourist stuff this afternoon but not much to talk about.
Guess what back in the Hotel parking lot (home from home) Mog is lekker to sleep in.
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GPS Update - January 13, 2016 at 11:44PM

Lat+14.131633 Lon+038.722033 Alt +7182 ft (0s ago) 13-Jan-2016 10:44:04 UTC http://map.iridium.com/m?lat=14.131633&lon=038.722033